A debate could easily ensue about whether fall or summer is nicer on the island—verdant lush vs. mile-high-blue sky and a chill in the air. Most people come to the island in its spectacular summer glory. You will be coming when fewer donkeys will be crossing the cobblestones in pink shorts with mild lunatic stares. If we get a real Indian summer, you could still get a warm day, and I predict at least one of you will strip down and jump in the water.
Fall is a contemplative time of year, less rushing about. There’s a wet dew on lawns in the morning that won’t be so quickly burned by sun, there’s more time for thinking. It is a particularly good time of year to walk the island. It’s also a good time to bike and to run. The bike paths are less crowded, and in the cooler air you can go for miles.
If you like to bike, I recommend renting from Youngs bike shop on Broad street. It’s one of the older shops in town, a family-run business. The guys that work there are friendly and helpful and will set you up. Here's a decent bike map that will show you the routes that criss-cross the island. There’s a nice route out of town to Madaket. A healthy ride that will bring you to the west end of the island. If you have any scavenger in you, drop by the dump and peruse the take-it-or-leave it. It’s just what it sounds like. I have found some of my favorite clothes on the heap.
Dionis is a beautiful beach, and Eel Point is great too—but for that you’ll need to park your bike and walk down to the sandy end. Cisco is an easy bike ride from town and a nice beach. On the way home you can take a right off of Hummock Pond road and drop by Bartlett's farm. They have good food, much of it made from farm produce. For those who are interested in a longer ride, you can do the loop—out to Nantucket’s other town, Sconset (officially Siasconet, but no one calls it that)—and back through Polpis. Nothing will be open in Sconset that time of year, but you can stop at Low Beach and look at the water and think about what it must have been like to live there 150 years ago when people were catching cod like nobody’s business. The surrounding neighborhood, Codfish Park, is the remnant of those days. Small low-slung houses backed up against each other. I always feel a little voyeuristic walking around, looking in, but it is worth a look at a beachfront shire. From Sconset you can head west on the Polpis road on a very pretty ride that will loop you back to town. (Once you are dumped back on Milestone, just keep turning right).
If you want to go the best beach on the island, you can head down Milestone Road from the rotary, as though you were going to Sconset, and take the first road on your right after the turn for the airport. When the asphalt ends, you’ll take a left onto dirt (but take the right hand of the fork) and follow that till you see the water, and then make your way down to the beach. You won’t be disappointed. If there’s been a blow, you might even find a surf clam. Stick in your pocket and hand over and we’ll make a chowder, you only need one or two for a small feast.
The moors—off the Polpis Road—are particularly beautiful in the fall. It’s still possible to get pretty turned around if you deep within. But you can safely get to Altar Rock, the highest point on the island, without getting lost. At the top of that humble mound you can see Nantucket harbor.
The cranberry bogs are a nice place to walk, well cleared and low and pretty. They are on the right off the Polpis Road, after the turn for the Wauwinet Road, before the turn for the Quidnet Road. That’s what cranberry bogs look like.
If you’re staying in town, Jetties Beach is an easy bike or walk, directions here. Facing out on the harbor you can watch the ferries coming and going.
Anyone interested in a bike ride coupled with a serious (beautiful) walk, can bike down Madaket road to Ram Pasture Road and meander on down to Ram Pasture. Through the fields, if you walk the whole of it, you will reach the water.
Things to do in town:
Town is small and if you stumble around you’ll see what there is to see. There are two bookstores—Mitchells and Book Works. Along with books, Book Works sells cards, loot for kids and trinkets that yearn to be picked up. Mitchells is smaller and more catered to readers. A word to the wise, anyone seen reading a book by Elin Hilenbrand will be required to lick the kitchen floor clean.
Our public library, the Atheneum, a beautiful building downtown, is well worth a visit. Be sure to head upstairs to the great hall. Frederick Douglas spoke in that room in 1841 and it is not hard to imagine the hush that fell that evening.
Our public library, the Atheneum, a beautiful building downtown, is well worth a visit. Be sure to head upstairs to the great hall. Frederick Douglas spoke in that room in 1841 and it is not hard to imagine the hush that fell that evening.
The Whaling Museum on Broad Street, recently renovated, is great. You can get a quick education in the island’s whaling history, see some impressive weaponry, a grand skeleton of a sperm whale, and plenty of scrimshaw. There’s a kid’s room downstairs that I can’t vouch for, but looks hands-on and entertaining to the small and curious.
If you walk up Main Street, past the Pacific National Bank that sits at the head, to number 96, you can take a tour through one of the fancier homes from Nantucket’s hay day, the Hadwen House. If wainscoting is your thing, this is your place.
Kitty corner from the Pacific National is Murray’s Toggery—an old island clothing store, the original vendor of the uber-wasp uniform, Nantucket reds. J. Crew just robbed the idea, and convinced the youth that they were cool. How I do not know. Belts with whales and that sort of thing are also sold with gusto.
On Center Street is Patina, where Ted Muehling’s amazing jewelry is sold. Worth a visit and a drool. The loveliest earrings known to man, and for the art involved, reasonably priced.
Treasures can be found at the Nantucket Cottage Hospital Thrift Shop on India Street if you have the magpie gene and hit it on a good day.
If you have done something lately to deserve a frock, walk down to the bottom of Main, take a right on Washington till you hit Salem street and go to Hepburn, a small shop that sells beautiful dresses, sweaters, and women’s shoes.
Further down the street, along Old South Wharf, is Island Weaves—a bounty of blankets, scarves, and throws woven by Karin Shepherd. Beautiful stuff in an array of colors.
If I had just a day to see town, I’d head to the Farmer’s market, to the right of the Post Office and have a look at what’s there. Local people selling real things, well made. This is where commerce should happen, on the street.
The New York Times did a piece this summer, 36 hours on Nantucket. I don’t know all of the spots highlighted, and some of them will be closed by Columbus Day weekend, but worth a look.
